What does "essential" mean?

Essence (from Latin "esse" = to be) has to do with fragrance as essential part, as the nature of a plant that carries its characteristics and information.

What are essential oils used for?

- to aromatise the living area (creating atmosphere through fragrances)
- as Feng Shui measures (to create a vital environment)
- at the office (for a clear head, to strengthen your memory and for harmonious
surroundings)
- for home perfumery (to compose your individual natural perfume)
- for the household (for cleaning, disinfection, aromatising)
- for aroma therapy (follow the instructions of your therapist)
- for aroma massage
- for aroma bathes and aroma sauna
- for aroma cosmetics (see dosage of essential oils)
- to stimulate sensuality (vive l'amour!)
- for foot care
- for aroma kitchen (see dosage of essential oils)
- for aroma culture ( to practise fragrance rituals and the creative use of the oils)
- at school ( as playful method to stimulate creativity and concentration)
- for subtle protection effect

How are essential oils obtained?

The most common way to obtain essential oils is steam distillation. The three steps of distillation are: vaporization, cooling and separation.
The plant material is carefully layered in the so-called alambique. One method is to put the plant material directly into the water and to boil the water.
The second method, that is more commonly used today, is to put the plant material on a grid inside the alambique and steam is drawn into it. The steam takes out the drops of oil from the plant and carries them with it.
In a chilled tube the steam with the essential oil condenses and is collected in a container, the Florentine pot. The oil, in most cases lighter than water and therefore floating on the surface, can now be separated from the water.

What does kbA mean?

(German: controlled biological cultivation) Organic cultivation is based on integral thinking, agriculture/farming is seen as an organism and as an interaction between soil, plant, animal and human being. Ecological associations as for example DEMETER, Nature & Progres and many more are orientated to the rules of the worldwide association IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movement) and have laid down a multitude of guidelines that are valid for organic cultivation:
Choice of plants appropriate to the site
Non-irrigated, little or only organically fertilized herb plantations
Crop rotation
Ban of herbicides
Biological pest control
Increase of the natural soil fertility, e.g. through compost
Ban of genetic manipulated seeds
Renunciation of chemical-synthetic hormones, protective substances for storage and after-ripening substances

What does top note, heart note, base note mean?

Top notes describe lightly volatile fragrances that are lasting only short time; their effect is cool, light, fresh, invigorating; most of them enhance the concentration; citrus oils for example have a clear top note.
Heart notes are flower oils such as Rose, Jasmine, Mimosa; also woody-spicy scents are part of them; they all last a little longer and with their harmonizing, balancing but also sensually stimulating, aphrodisiac effect they are the centre, the "heart" in a fragrant composition.
Base notes have a relaxing, stabilizing, grounding effect; example: Vetiver; base notes are long lasting, heavy fragrances, often from roots or resinous oils.

What are chemo types?

Chemo types are varieties inside a plant family (Rosemary, Thyme) that contain a special characteristic ingredient and therefore a special fragrance and effect. Examples: Rosemary Verbenon, Rosemary Cineol, Thyme Thymol, Thyme Linalol, Hyssop Decumbens.

How does cold pressing work?

To obtain the so-called citrus oils there are different pressing methods:
1. The surface of the peel is carved; the raising essential oil is sprayed off with water; afterwards oil and water are separated by centrifuge.
2. After the juice is pressed from the citrus fruit the left over peel is pressed and mixed with water, from this oil-water-mixture the essential oil is obtained through centrifuge.

What is the meaning of "Absolute" and "Concrete"?

The word "Absolute" comes from the kind of obtaining (Latin solvere = to solve).
Some of the precious flowers as Jasmine, Tuberose, Mimosa, Broom and Narcissus can be neither obtained by steam distillation nor by alcohol extraction. Nowadays mostly chemical solvents as Hexane are used to extract the fragrant substances out of the flowers.
With the first step one gets the ointment-like Concrete that contains wax. One step further the solvent is distilled with alcohol under vacuum - one gets the liquid or viscous final product, the Absolute.
Absolutes are very intensive in their scent, only 1 - 2 drops are needed to blend with 50 ml basic oil.

What does Co-Distillation mean?

It's a special kind of distillation with surprising effects.
At the co-distillation (Latin: co = together) plants, of which you normally can't get fragrance, are distilled together with a vegetable carrying substance like rubber plant or cedar. The carrying substance combines together with the delicate scent of the distillation substance. A joy for nosey noses: Nettle-Essence with the fragrance of green leaves and warm summer soil; Alga-Essence - a pinch of sea wind; Hay-Essence - scenting summer meadows.

What is enfleurage?

Enfleurage is a traditional method for gaining the scent of very sensible plants. Flowers are laid by hand on a sheet of glass that is coated with fat, then it's stored in a dark and cool place. Afterwards the flowers are replaced by new flowers. This procedure is repeated again and again until the fat is saturated with essential oil and turned into the so-called "pomade". Then the pomade is washed with alcohol, in this way the fat is separated and cleaned out from the essential oil. Afterwards the alcohol is distilled and there is the pure essential oil.

How does Gas Chromatography work?

In the gas chromatograph the different ingredients of an essential oil are separated and classified. A carrying gas transports a little bit of vaporized essential oil through a column. The molecules of the different ingredients get in order; each ingredient generates the so-called "peak", a jagged swing of the graphic instrument (comparable to ECG or EEG).
By this it's possible to state the quantity and quality of the ingredients of an oil; by comparing recorded data with the corresponding sample one can judge if the oil is genuine and unadulterated.
The GC-MS (Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectographie) is a combined method, that analyses the ingredients by their molecular mass spectrum and facilitate an even more differentiated quality judgement.

What is (((Enantiomerentrennung)))?

Plants have the quality of forming scent molecules in a specific proportion of dextrorotatory and laevorotatory. These so-called (((Enantiomerenverhältnisse))) are measurable with a new analytic method, the so-called (((Enantiomerentrennung))); they show whether an essential oil has been adulterated or forged. Unfortunately with this method there are standards only for a few oils, so it's not possible to have a control for each oil and (((charge))).

How to measure out the oils for the different applications?

Essential oils are concentrates: about 30 Damascene Rose flowers give 1 drop of essential Rose oil. About 8 Million Jasmine flowers come to 1 kg of Jasmine Absolute. In this way the contents of one little bottle contains a concentrated load of information and fragrance.
To add fragrance to a room you just put a few drops in a diffuser - and you are walking through a citrus grove or along the Copa Cabana. For aromatising rooms you have the same rule as for natural cosmetic: less is more! Above that many fragrances develop their bouquet and their richness of nuances not until they are diluted. Tip: 1ml is about 25 - 30 drops of essential oil.

Dosage:
Adding fragrance to your room through a diffuser:
Let 1 - 10 drops essential oil evaporate with water (according to the size of a room and the intensity of the oil: top notes like citrus oils evaporate quickly; flower oils like Jasmine and Narcissus scent strongly: here you need just one drop).

Fragrant Fountain:
Add the most 10 drops essential oil a day.

To refresh yourself while travelling:
Put 1 - 2 drops essential oil on a tissue and inhale.

Face Oil:
5 - 10 drops in 100 ml Base Oil (Apricot Kernel, Jojoba, Almond, Macadamia, Evening Primrose, Sallow Thorn or Rose Hip Oil)

Body and Massage Oil:
10 - 25 drops in 100 ml Base Oil (Avocado, Hemp, Almond, Jojoba, Sesame or Wheat Germ Oil)

Face Tonic
Mix 2 - 3 drops of essential oil with 100 ml Hydrosol and 5 - 10 ml pure alcohol.

Perfume concentrations :
Eau de Cologne: 3 - 5 % perfume
Eau de Toilette : 4 - 8 % perfume
Eau de Parfum : 8 - 15 % perfume

Hot and cold compresses:
Put 2 - 6 drops of essential oil into 2 litres of water.

Face steam bath:
1 - 2 drops in 2 litres of water.

Face Masque:
Mix 3 tablespoons of clay, healing earth or oatmeal with some water to a mush and add 2 - 4 drops of essential oil.

Aroma Bath
Always mix the essential oils with emulsifiers, for example 2 - 3 tablespoons of PRIMAVERA LIFE Bath Oil "Basic", cream, honey, liquid soap or sea salt.
Proper Bath: 10 - 20 drops of essential oil.
Hip Bath: 5 - 6 drops of essential oil.
Foot Bath: 5 - 6 drops of essential oil.

Sauna:
Put 3 - 5 drops of essential oil in one ladle of water; stir it well (essential oils are easily flammable and must not be evaporated undiluted).

Aroma Kitchen:
Blend 50 ml edible oil (olive, hazelnut or sesame oil) with 3 - 5 drops of essential oil. Add the essential oils after cooking. Never put the essential oils directly from the bottle into the dish (danger of overdose!), but mix before with an emulsifier.

Sweet emulsifiers: Cream, honey, maple syrup, nut-butter, and fructose

Salty, piquant emulsifiers: Vegetable oils like olive, sunflower, safflower; sea salt, vinegar, soybean sauce, mustard, egg yolk

Household:
Clean rooms with 5 - 10 drops essential oil in 5 litres of water.

Where does the word "Aromatherapy" come from?

The term "Aromatherapy" dates from the year 1928 from the French chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé who was working with the antibiotic and antiseptic qualities of essential oils.

How do we absorb essential oils?

1. Through the nose
Here the fine scent molecules are taken inside the olfactory mucous membrane. From there electrical impulses are sent to the brain, affecting both body functions and emotions.

2. Through the skin
During applications as for example aroma massages or aroma baths it's not only the olfactory sense that is stimulated, but also parts of the essential oils are absorbed through the skin and get into blood circulation.

3. Internal use
For a novice it's not advisable to take essential oils internally, as they are extremely irritating to mucous membranes. Use internally only after consulting a physician.

Do essential oils have an aphrodisiac effect?

Love and Eros live out of certain moods, of magic and atmosphere. More subtle and mostly unconscious scents have a major role. Activating imagination, fragrances and perfumes attract, draw attention and - leed you by the nose. The erotic effects of scents, however, are individually different.
Spice notes as Pepper, Clove Leaves or Cardamom "fire" the senses. Flower oils like Rose or Neroli may give a sensuous mood as they have a relaxing effect. Oils like Jasmine or clary sage make euphoric, exhilarate and inspire.
Especially heart and base notes that last longer and have a scent fixing effect belong to the aphrodisiac fragrances: Carnation, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Champaca, Jasmine, Frangipani, Acacia, Rose Geranium, Labdanum, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedar, Oud, Vetiver, Benzoin.
Apply your favourite scent (blended in a base oil) to your skin and to the inside of your clothes, to earlobes, hair (that is an excellent carrier for scents) and everywhere else, where the blood pulses directly under the skin, like to the inside of the forearm, the wrist and the (pounding) heart.

Attention with allergies

Nowadays many people react to different substances with allergic reactions. Essential oils are highly concentrated substances and therefore can cause allergic reactions to sensitive persons. It is worth testing your favourite scent before using it for body care. Blend 1 drop essential oil with about 10 drops base oil, e.g. almond oil, and apply to the inside of your forearm. If skin turns red, please abstain from this essential oil.

How do sun and essential oils go together?

Some essential oils raise the photosensitivity of skin: Angelica Root, Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Clementine, Grapefruit, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, and Lemon. After an application of one of these oils (perfume, body oil or massage oil) you shouldn't use the solarium nor expose your skin to the sun.

How many scents can one person distinguish?

It is theoretical possible for one person to distinguish some thousands of different scents. It depends on many conditions, how fine and distinctive the olfactory sense is: mood, well-being, state of mind, age, sex, menstruation cycle, smoking habits - and training. The more you sniff, smell and perceive consciously, the more you will make distinctions between the scents and will be able to classify them.

Where do plants store essential oil?

Essential oils are produced and stored by different parts of the plants. Nearly all the parts of a plant can contain essential oils. Depending on their nature, the plants store them in different containers: many labiates, as Sage, Melissa or Marjoram have gland hair or gland scales in their upper skin layer.
Laurel plants such as Cinnamon or Cassia have oil- and resin-cells to store their fragrant fluids.
In many umbellifers like Aniseed, Fennel and Coriander the essential oils are situated in tubular ducts that give off oil only after being cut or broken.
When peeling a citrus fruit the fragrant essence splashes onto us. The plant stores the oil in cavities, the oil containers, they can be easily identified with the naked eye on the peel.

How much oil is contained in fragrant plants?

The content of oil in fragrant plants differs between 0,001% and up to 20% (clove).
For example: 100 kg plant material come to the following amounts of essential oil:
2,1 kg Lavendin, 0,4 kg Rosemary, 0,1 kg Hyssop, 0,3 kg Sage, 0,012 kg Melissa.

Why don't essential oils always smell the same?

Plants need very specific conditions concerning climate, locality and weather to produce their fragrant substances to their perfection: quality of soil, local rain fall, mild or rough climate, frost and especially sunny days have an effect on content, quality and fragrance character of the essential oils. In this way it's possible that the scent of an essential oil varies from year to year as it is known with wine. Only standardized industry oils, that are very often subsequent treated and "adjusted" to a fixed value of contents, always smell the same.

What are fixatives?

These are agents that fix other scents. They are used to bind lightly volatile fragrances in perfume compositions. To compose a harmonic course of a perfume - i.e. the single fragrant components (top-, heart and base-notes) are perceived at different moments - one uses fixatives that are a kind of "anchor" for the fragrances. Vegetable fixatives are for example Musk Mallow, Styrax, Benzoin, Sandalwood and Vetiver.

What is Ambergris?

Ambergris is an excretion of the whale (Physeter macrocephalus). This giant of the ocean from time to time spits out a stomach secretion formed as black or grey clods. Those are washed ashore and are traded as very demanded fragrance. Through exploiting whale-hunting and pollution of the oceans the whales are decimated and the ambergris is an unaffordable rarity.

What does (((anosmy))) mean?

It means olfactory blindness of a person, i.e. the inability to perceive scents and to smell.

What is a Hydrosol?

Hydrosols are aromatic floral waters obtained from steam distillation of essential oils. During the distillation the steam dissolves the essential oil off the plant material. After cooling and condensing the essential oil floats on the aromatic water and can be easily separated. The water has gone through the whole process of distillation and is saturated with essential oil and the information of the plant (content of essential oil between 0,1 and 0,5 %).